A cluckin' fine lunch at Sonio's
In a town like Las Vegas, few things are allowed to grow old. Fact is, anything that has been around more than a couple of decades is considered antique. For example, the implosions of such hotels as the Dunes, Sands, Landmark and Aladdin reflect our out-with-the-ancient, in-with-the-old-and-implodable-in-20 years mentality.
Same logic applies to restaurants in these parts. Not that we blow them to smithereens—though that would be cool—but it seems a new place will open and will be hot for a couple of years, before it too becomes passé. Thus begins a cycle of conversions leading to several incarnations before it is bought out and ultimately succumbs to the lackluster tentacles of homogenous chaindom. So, it is no surprise that a Las Vegas restaurant founded in 1992 is now considered an “institution,” especially among the let’s-go-out-to-lunch working crowd. That restaurant, with its nearly 14 years of staying power, is Sonio’s Café and Rotisserie.
Not even a devastating, early morning fire on Sept. 12, 2003 could deter owner Yiorgo Aretos from rebuilding what had become a lunchtime landmark in a strip mall on the northwest corner of Valley View and Charleston boulevards. Yet rebuild he did and, greeted by long lines of return and new customers, Aretos reopened Sonio’s on Nov. 14, 2004.
Since then, the modest little place has continued booming. Lunch crowds often spill out the front door; the rule of thumb among Sonio’s veterans is that if you aren’t there by 11:30 a.m., you may have quite a wait ahead of you.
Entering Sonio’s from one of Las Vegas’ busiest intersections (parking can be a challenge if you drive there for a weekday lunch), you are confronted by posters advertising some obscure independent movie, as well as black Sonio’s logo T-shirts available for purchase (at $6 each). Other posters include photos of Sonio’s famous rotisserie chicken emblazoned with the unfortunate acronym, SCAR (as in, Sonio’s Café and Rotisserie), and a corny tagline, “The best cluckin’ chicken you’ve ever had.” The place is homey in a way, unimposing yet inviting.
But atmosphere is not the reason why so many people love this place. By far, the most popular item is the joint’s signature rotisserie chicken, available in quarter and half portions with choice of sides (all priced under $8.20) and whole chickens ranging from $8.20 to $25.95 for two whole chickens and three sides. All chicken plates are served with a wedge of pita bread and a choice of one, two or three sides including Greek pasta, Spanish rice, steamed veggies, pinto beans and a spinach and feta cheese pasta salad.
Also on the menu is a variety of California pita roll sandwiches and a slew of Mexican offerings, including burritos so big, they could easily hurt someone if thrown at them with sufficient velocity. And, for all the roughage lovers out there, Sonio’s makes salads in huge bowls that can accommodate half the population of Green Valley. (Think Elaine Benes and her “big salads” on Seinfeld.) These leafy green smorgasbords include Greek, Chinese chicken, chicken Caesar, spicy Mexican chicken Caesar (just to cover several bases at once) and some low-cal varieties.
After perusing the menu, Mrs. Eater chose a quarter chicken plate with a side salad with Chinese dressing and potatoes (actually sautéed red-skin new potatoes) for $6.20. I tried the Uncle Teddy’s Special, a quarter chicken accompanied by a concoction of pinto beans, Spanish rice, sour cream, salsa, cheese and enchilada sauce ($6.50), plus a late-added side of spinach and feta cheese pasta salad ($1.25). Our total tab, including tax and one non-alcoholic beverage, was $18.59.
Mrs. Eater (pointing at the small bowl of mixed beans, cheese, etc. on my plate): What is that stuff supposed to be?
Mr. Eater: It’s supposed to be a dip for the chicken, but it just doesn’t seem right to put chicken this good in any kind of dip. It is a bit funky.
Mrs. Eater: To be honest, the chicken is just chicken. I mean it’s not bad, but I’ve had better and I’ve had worse.
Mr. Eater: Well I think it’s pretty good, after all it is the featured item. Although I am trying to avoid eating the skin.
Mrs. Eater (pushing her plate toward me): You’ve got to try these potatoes. These are the best potatoes I have ever had and, as you know, I am the Potato Queen.
Mr. Eater: Those are great, I like the seasoning on them. Now try my pasta salad.
Mrs. Eater: Oh that is really good. That and the potatoes are the best things here, I think.
Mr. Eater: So you’re thinking sides alone make the meal?
Mrs. Eater: No, but (looking at someone else’s lunch) maybe next time I’ll try something Mexican.
Mr. Eater: Maybe I’m weird, and I am sure it’s pretty good here, but I can’t picture eating Mexican food anywhere else but at a Mexican restaurant.
Mrs. Eater: You are weird but that’s OK. (Then, gazing at a salad bowl at a nearby table) Good God, look at the size of that thing!
And now, The Forks (on a scale of 1 to 5):
Sonio’s Café and Rotisserie is located at 3900 W. Charleston Blvd., Las Vegas, NV 89102. Call (702) 307-2177. Hours are Monday to Friday, 9 a.m. to 11 a.m. (light breakfast and coffee) and 11 a.m. to 7:15 p.m. (dine in) and 7:30 p.m. (take-out), and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Closed Sunday. Visit sonioscafe.com.
