Getting fresh at Café Caubo

Years ago, I heard a standup comic on the radio doing a monolog about his experiences as a waiter in a Mexican restaurant, serving a customer who obviously was unacquainted with the cuisine. It went something like this: “What’s a tay-co?” he said, exaggerating the patron’s Southern accent. “Well, it’s meat, lettuce, cheese, beans and salsa wrapped up in a tortilla.” “OK, then what’s a burr-it-o?” “Well, it’s meat, lettuce, cheese, beans and salsa wrapped up in a tortilla...”
You get the idea. Of course, those of us who have lived in the Southwest for an appreciable length of time and who love Mexican food are well aware of the subtle differences between these and other dishes. We also know that using these staple ingredients, it’s kinda difficult to mess up Mexican food – and when somebody DOES screw it up, we know it. Our taste buds are quick to detect the freshness and authenticity of ingredients and fine-tuned flavor combinations common to our favorite foods from south of the border.
This is not to say that all Mexican restaurants and the foods they serve are alike. To the contrary, they are as different as a taco is to a burrito is to carne asada is to ceviche is to a chile relleno is to a bowl of menudo. Moreover, with our growing Latino population in Southern Nevada, we have more options for Mexican food than ever – from fast-food type eateries to fancy sit-down restaurants, all with their own specialties. So, when Mrs. Eater and I went out for Mexican one evening recently, we had plenty of options at our disposal – but even with so many choices, we decided to pay a visit to our local Café Caubo.
Ordinarily, assembly line food can be unappealing. Stand in line, choose your ingredients, and watch as someone puts them together into a bowl or a loaf of bread, then hope for the best when you eat it. However, even though it too employs the Henry Ford approach to creating a meal, Café Caubo—with two locations in Henderson and two more on the way in Las Vegas—makes sure you know that the ingredients are real and fresh.
Starting with the tortillas, the cornerstone of Mexican cuisine. Entering the maze that guides patrons to the ordering/serving area, and after perusing the menu, the first thing you encounter behind the Plexiglas is a pair of ladies making tortillas by hand. As they are the cornerstones of Mexican cuisine, fresh tortillas can make or break a meal – and trust us, Café Caubo’s are fresh and darn good.
Inasmuch as the making of hot, fresh tortillas is a show unto itself, you then move on and place your order, and then customize your choice with pico de gallo, cilantro, and other ingredients. Then you watch as a cook heats up your meat selection on a grill, loads up the tortillas, and adds ingredients of your choosing (cilantro, pico de gallo, etc.). On its Web site, Café Caubo brags that they use no microwaves, lard, MSG or freezers. Pretty much, this is as fresh as fresh gets.
Café Caubo’s menu features some old reliables and some delectable and unique alternatives. There are burritos, tacos and enchiladas made with chicken, shredded beef or char-grilled steak. Sweet pork, another option, is a delicious alternative to your basic carnitas. The menu also includes tortilla salad, tortilla soup, and chips served with a variety of accompaniments (salsa, guacamole, queso and crema verde) and children’s selections. Dessert choices include tres leches cake, coconut caramel flan and churros. Entrees can be ordered as part of a combination or a la carte, with prices ranging from $2.99 for a la carte tacos, burritos and enchiladas to $5.75 to $6.50 for combos of two or more of these items.
For our dinner, Mrs. Eater chose the salmon taco meal (a seasonal item), a single taco served with black beans and rice for $5.95, while I selected the two taco meal, one each of shredded beef and sweet pork with rice and black beans on the side, for $6.50. Our total tab, including two non-alcoholic beverages, was $15.98.
Mrs. Eater: I love salmon, but as I recall they were short on salmon and big on greens. The salmon itself was dry.
Mr. Eater: So I take it you were disappointed?
Mrs. Eater: Very.
Mr. Eater: So what did you like?
Mrs. Eater: Yours.
Mr. Eater: What did you like about mine?
Mrs. Eater: Their sweet pork is positively to die for, it is so good
Mr. Eater: I agree, I love it, I don’t know how to describe it.
Mrs. Eater: Moist, succulent and delicious. There. I like it.
Mr. Eater: I wish I knew their recipe for it. I think the bean and rice were just beans and rice, but they weren’t bad.
Mrs. Eater: They don’t have salsa on the table, I find that distressing. What a place without chips and salsa? I would go back though and I would get the sweet pork.
Mr. Eater: I don’t blame you.
And now, The Forks (on a scale of 1 to 5):
• Quality of food: 3.5 forks
• Value: 4 forks
• Cleanliness: 3 forks
• Ambience: 3 forks
• Friendliness of staff: 4 forks
• Parking: 5 forks
• Accessibility: 4 forks
Café Caubo is located at 10345 S. Eastern Ave., Henderson, NV 89052. Hours are Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Closed Sunday. Call (702) 795-2226. Also at 1205 W. Sunset Road, Henderson, NV 89014. Call (702) 269-9950. Visit cafecaubo.com.









Comments
Cafe Caubo's sweet pork burrito is by far my favorite burrito - bar none!
Posted by: Anonymous | September 5, 2006 08:02 PM
We love Cafe Caubo! The salad and the pork burrito are amazing. We've moved to California and miss going there! Anytime we drive through we schedule a stop at Cafe Caubo.
Posted by: chanelle | September 21, 2007 01:59 PM