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July 03, 2006

Getting fresh at Café Caubo

CATEGORIZED AS: Mr. & Mrs. Eater

Good stuff at Cafe Caubo

Years ago, I heard a standup comic on the radio doing a monolog about his experiences as a waiter in a Mexican restaurant, serving a customer who obviously was unacquainted with the cuisine. It went something like this: “What’s a tay-co?” he said, exaggerating the patron’s Southern accent. “Well, it’s meat, lettuce, cheese, beans and salsa wrapped up in a tortilla.” “OK, then what’s a burr-it-o?” “Well, it’s meat, lettuce, cheese, beans and salsa wrapped up in a tortilla...”

You get the idea. Of course, those of us who have lived in the Southwest for an appreciable length of time and who love Mexican food are well aware of the subtle differences between these and other dishes. We also know that using these staple ingredients, it’s kinda difficult to mess up Mexican food – and when somebody DOES screw it up, we know it. Our taste buds are quick to detect the freshness and authenticity of ingredients and fine-tuned flavor combinations common to our favorite foods from south of the border.

This is not to say that all Mexican restaurants and the foods they serve are alike. To the contrary, they are as different as a taco is to a burrito is to carne asada is to ceviche is to a chile relleno is to a bowl of menudo. Moreover, with our growing Latino population in Southern Nevada, we have more options for Mexican food than ever – from fast-food type eateries to fancy sit-down restaurants, all with their own specialties. So, when Mrs. Eater and I went out for Mexican one evening recently, we had plenty of options at our disposal – but even with so many choices, we decided to pay a visit to our local Café Caubo.

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May 16, 2006

¡Viva las comidas Cubanas! ¡Viva Havana Grill!

CATEGORIZED AS: Mr. & Mrs. Eater

Havana Grill

Often, the divisive machinations of international politics interfere with our ability to visit a distant country, learn from, and understand a foreign culture. For generations, this was a truism for such one-time enemies as China, Russia and Vietnam. That is, until the thawing Cold War – and the prospect of making lots of money from the exchange of tourists – encouraged governments to cast aside some old enmities and permit their citizens to visit each other’s lands.

Sadly, this does not apply to Cuba. The island nation 90 miles off the coast of Florida and its iconic leader, Fidel Castro, remains a pariah to Washington. In 1960, a year after Castro ousted former President Fulgencio Batista (himself no Boy Scout) and aligned himself as a Marxist with the Soviet Union, our government imposed myriad economic and diplomatic sanctions on Cuba. These included trade embargoes and travel bans, all devised with the mistaken and naïve belief that doing so would spur the average downtrodden Cuban to rise up and overthrow Castro. Yet, after nearly a half-century, Castro is still going strong, and we Americans still cannot legally travel to Cuba – unless we go there via Canada, the Bahamas or Mexico, which don’t have the same political hang-ups as we do.

Much of the pressure to maintain the status quo against Castro stems from the disproportionate influence exerted on our government by thousands of Cuban exiles living in the United States. These well-intentioned folks hold on to the anachronistic dogma that maintaining a hard line against Castro will eventually lead to his downfall.

Consequently, the closest many of us will ever get to experience Cuban culture is the occasional illicit cigar and the ensemble musicians who make up the Buena Vista Social Club – and even they would otherwise remain unheard if not for the apolitical genius of guitarist, songwriter and producer Ry Cooder.

While the vast majority of Cuban expatriates live in South Florida, we are fortunate to have many residing here in Southern Nevada. Through them, we can take vicarious trips to the sandy beaches and sugar cane fields of Cuba, accompanied by the intoxicating beat of salsa music. Moreover, we can eat their food; luckily for us all, there are several fine Cuban restaurants serving up native dishes in the Las Vegas area. One of the best, opening a flavorful window on a country so close yet so far from our shores, is the Havana Grill.

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April 15, 2006

Marooned? Not on this Island, please...

CATEGORIZED AS: Mr. & Mrs. Eater

Ordinarily, we make a conscious effort to avoid chain restaurants. Not that we are total snobs—heck, there are times when even a Chili’s or an Applebee’s can surprise you with a decent, quality meal. Sometimes though, when you’re hungry, you can’t help but avoid a chain restaurant, even though it may be a lesser-known chain that those mentioned above.

Such was the case recently when Mrs. Eater and I, spending a Saturday afternoon running errands all over town, came down with a severe case of the hungries while cruising through Summerlin. In an area along West Charleston Boulevard near I-215 are a bevy of places to plop your tired bones down and grab a bite; predictably, most of these are chain eateries headquartered somewhere else. Yet because Mrs. Eater had just about reached the point of gnawing off my arm, and I was on the verge of having a nosh on the other one, we chose a place called Islands.

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April 13, 2006

Vacationing with the Eaters no ka oi

CATEGORIZED AS: Mr. & Mrs. Eater

Lahaina, MauiA while back, Las Vegas earned the nickname “The Ninth Island of Hawai’i” in deference to the number of Aloha State expatriates who now call Sin City home. Estimated at anywhere from 55,000 to 65,000, these folks—for one reason or another—have traded in their sandy beaches, balmy tropical climes and lush rainforests for our dry desert heat, cookie-cutter suburbs and urban cacophony.

Fortunately for us haoles, these immigrant kanaka Hawai’i have brought with them healthy doses of their native culture. Everything from hula schools and Hawaiian newspapers to the ubiquitous ABC Stores are popping up all over the Las Vegas Valley. But perhaps the most delicious of Hawaiian imports are restaurants, from mom-and-pop plate lunch joints to fine dining rooms to chain eateries. These places give us land-locked desert dwellers opportunities to sample kalua pig, lomi lomi salmon and other island delicacies. But the question comes to mind, where do Las Vegans eat when visiting Hawai’i? Well, Mrs. Eater and I decided to find out recently during a vacation to the Valley Isle of Maui.

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March 27, 2006

A café that's just Grand

CATEGORIZED AS: Mr. & Mrs. Eater

img_grand_main_sol.jpg
I don’t know why, but out-of-state friends and relatives somehow think those of us who live in Las Vegas spend all of our time eating at buffets. “Oh, I saw where they opened that new Wynn casino out there—been to the buffet yet?” “I hear the one at Circus Circus is really good and cheap, too.” “Last time I was in Vegas, I must’ve eaten at just about every buffet in town. I bet you have, too, seeing as you live there.”

Well, no, I haven’t. Truth of the matter is, I don’t particularly like casino buffets. Sure, I’ll go if one of my aforementioned out-of-state friends/relatives is in town and wants to get their gluttony on by eating like there’s no tomorrow for one low price, and to come to the mistaken conclusion that they have taken the casino to the cleaners simply because they gorged on $80 worth of food for $10.99. But for the most part—and to maintain my sanity as buffets tend to bring out the “outta my way cuz I want those mashed potatoes” aggressiveness of far too many people—I avoid the buffets.

Early on in my Vegasness, I latched onto the hotel coffee shop as an attractive alternative to the buffet. Of course, these days the term “coffee shop” is a quaint anachronism, as many of these 24-hour eateries are usually called “cafés” or some such puffy moniker. But the thing I liked about them then and that I still appreciate is their relaxed atmosphere and varied, relatively low-priced menu selections. Plus, unlike buffets, they don’t make you feel compelled to eat as if all life as we know it will end by noon the next day. So, on a recent evening, Mrs. Eater and I decided to pay a visit to the Green Valley Ranch Station Casino in Henderson to try out their new coffee shop, the Grand Café.

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March 20, 2006

A cluckin' fine lunch at Sonio's

CATEGORIZED AS: Mr. & Mrs. Eater

Sonio's chickenIn a town like Las Vegas, few things are allowed to grow old. Fact is, anything that has been around more than a couple of decades is considered antique. For example, the implosions of such hotels as the Dunes, Sands, Landmark and Aladdin reflect our out-with-the-ancient, in-with-the-old-and-implodable-in-20 years mentality.

Same logic applies to restaurants in these parts. Not that we blow them to smithereens—though that would be cool—but it seems a new place will open and will be hot for a couple of years, before it too becomes passé. Thus begins a cycle of conversions leading to several incarnations before it is bought out and ultimately succumbs to the lackluster tentacles of homogenous chaindom. So, it is no surprise that a Las Vegas restaurant founded in 1992 is now considered an “institution,” especially among the let’s-go-out-to-lunch working crowd. That restaurant, with its nearly 14 years of staying power, is Sonio’s Café and Rotisserie.

Not even a devastating, early morning fire on Sept. 12, 2003 could deter owner Yiorgo Aretos from rebuilding what had become a lunchtime landmark in a strip mall on the northwest corner of Valley View and Charleston boulevards. Yet rebuild he did and, greeted by long lines of return and new customers, Aretos reopened Sonio’s on Nov. 14, 2004.

Since then, the modest little place has continued booming. Lunch crowds often spill out the front door; the rule of thumb among Sonio’s veterans is that if you aren’t there by 11:30 a.m., you may have quite a wait ahead of you.

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March 13, 2006

Lounging at the Mermaid

CATEGORIZED AS: Mr. & Mrs. Eater

Mermaid Restaurant and LoungeI have a dirty little secret: I like eating dinner while chillin’ on my family room sofa. It’s nice and soft and leather and affords a great view of the TV, so I can chow down on…whatever, while I catch the latest sports action on ESPN. (My wife does the same, except she prefers HGTV from the recliner while chowing down on…whatever.)

We also like to eat out, but rare is the restaurant that serves inexpensive food as good or better than that we can eat at home while still allowing us to simultaneously kick back on a sofa or a comfortable chair and watch TV. That is, until we visited the Mermaid Restaurant and Lounge at the Silverton Hotel and Casino.

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March 07, 2006

Fish 'n Chippin at the Village Pub

CATEGORIZED AS: Mr. & Mrs. Eater

The Village PubOnce during a trip to Palm Springs many years ago, my wife developed a sudden craving for fish and chips. Nothing else would do; not prime rib, not Mexican, not even her beloved broiled salmon. So we pretty much drove all over the Coachella Valley in search of a place – any place – that could satisfy Mrs. Eater’s jones for British soul food. Luckily, we found a mom and pop that featured her deep-fried heart’s desire, complete with malt vinegar and optional cole slaw. And thus, our evening – our entire trip – was saved.

Fast-forward 20 years to 2006: One evening, I happen to mention in passing to my better half that I would like some fish and chips. Normally, I avoid fried foods in the same manner that I decline invitations to go hunting with Dick Cheney. But the craving struck. So, Mrs. Eater gladly offered to take me out for a monochromatic plate of deep-fried cod and a side of golden fries – and thus, we decided to visit our neighborhood Village Pub.

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